Day 16: Granada to Sierra Nevada

This was a very exciting day for me visiting the Sierra Nevada mountains. Pico Veleta rises to 3,398 meters.

A narrow road winds its way from the south-east side of Granada, past Cenes de la Vega and Sierra Nevada village, then stops at a small car park. 

I had it in mind to wild camp at the top. I was getting my gear ready when a little red car pulled up and parked beside me. 3 mountain-fit looking men got out and started preparing themseves for what seemed to be the same idea. However they wore the most serious boots and carried similarly serious protective clothing, they were checking and double checking everything they took with them, they had ropes, they applied creams to themselves, they had their own medical kits, GPS, they counted every single packet of food they took, laying each item out on the bonnet of the car and dividing it between them. 

I had no map and it was a pleasant and sunny day, so why the fuss?!

I asked them what was the likely temperature at the top and they replied about 5 - 8°C. As it turned out they were going on a 3 day mountain hike. They each phoned someone and left.

The peak was a long way off, I didn't know the mountain and was going it alone. Was I being a complete idiot? I dwelt on the matter and decided today would be a trial run. I'd leave the tent but take everything else I would need, as if I was camping, in my rucksack. I thought it sensible to simply see how it went and how I performed almost fully laden.

I set off up the first stretch of grass leading to the vehicle control cabin. I was feeling breathy! I balanced up the rucksack pulling a few straps here and there and continued. The round trip to the top was approximately 14 miles. It was a winding road going up, and an almost straight descent.

I got into a rhythm and kept pushing on. From time to time I'd stop and have some energy drink or cereal bar and continue on. I looked back and seemed to be progressing very slowly and the peak remained illusively distant.

After about an hour and a half it was getting decidedly colder. There were pockets of warm air that made you sweat then all of a sudden a blast of cold air would pentrate your clothing and it felt very uncomfortabe. Unmelted snow from previous winters lay all around. It was remaining cold now so on went the Patagonia Storm Jacket.

I couldn't believe that I was still going. However after 3 hours or so I was thinking I would have to go back. I was knackered! Cloud was whirling around cutting off visibilty for a few minutes then it would clear. Snow blocked the path at one point and I had to negotiate a way round it. I kept pushing on, my rucksack feeling increasingly cumbersome. 

After over 4 hours of pushing relentlessly uphill I'd reached the top!! I was completely enveloped in cloud. I sat by the summit post, a few feet from the edge, replenishing my energy with Snickers and Lucozade. I felt mighty chuffed with myself!

 

 

Contemplating matters at 3,398 meters alone creates all sorts of insecurities! The breeze blowing vertically up the mountain from the south would be silent one minute and build up to a sinister groan the next. There was definitely the feeling of straddling a benevolent monster that could turn on you at any time.

I can see why those 'professionals' on their 3 day mountain hike had taken matters so seriously. If things did unexpectedly change you'd better be prepared for it!

Time to return. I identified various steeper paths down leaving the security of the main track. I did have my own GPS, a Garmin eTrex, that kept me assured I wasn't straying anywhere I shouldn't as I was still surrounded by cloud. I just hoped the batteries lasted!

After around 2 1/2 hours I was back at my car feeling VERY satisfied. Should I have taken the tent and stayed up there? I think I did OK.

I left the mountain, arriving at a lovely site C. Ruta del Purche, near Monachil. 

There was time enough for a swim in the pool just before the sun set.